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travel & place in Sri Lanka


The 7 Wonders of Ancient Lanka | Part 3
Sri Lanka’s seven greatest wonders from ancient times include a palace to escape death, a dish, a book, and a fortress. But what made them so fundamental – to the nation and the world – as to earn their place in history?


The 7 Wonders of Ancient Lanka | Part 2
A tree – and a trio of stupas are among ancient Sri Lanka’s greatest wonders. But why are any of these so important – not just to the island, but to the world?


The 7 Wonders of Ancient Lanka | Part 1
Despite their iconic status, the original seven wonders of the ancient world pale in comparison to the seven wonders of ancient Lanka, the subject of the next three podcasts. But of them all, why include Panda Wewa, a reservoir now lost in the jungle, not from present-day Chilaw?


Finding Gorgonzola | A Pilgrimage From Colombo
Rich, salty, earthy, savoury, sharp – gorgonzola is not a cheese common to Sri Lanka, and yet its mere anticipation calls to mind on the island the seven stages of living. And of them all, how can you ever manage to make the last, last? I wake and see two yellow Minivets flying off into the jungle. And, by a dizzy sequence of associations too tiresome to make sense of, my mind is turned almost immediately to thoughts of gorgonzola. Gorgonzola is not an easy cheese to fi


Secret Kandy Part 5 | The 200-Year-Long War
Protected by a necklace of high mountains and surrounded by dense jungle ideal for guerrilla warfare, the Kandyan kingdom’s natural defences helped it withstand repeated invasions. But what was this long-forgotten mountain war, fought for almost 200 years?


Secret Kandy Part 4 | Where The Grass Is Greener
City though it is, Kandy - sequestered within high mountains and deep valleys – has numerous secretive wild pockets of utter bewitchment. But where will you find them – and what will you find when you get there?


Secret Kandy Part 3 | Five Forgotten Stories
Kandy is much more than its city. And in an arc of land that spreads to the north are five places that tell stories of the kingdom that are almost entirely forgotten. What are they, and why do they matter?


Secret Kandy Part 2 | God & Mammon
The Vatican City of Sri Lanka, Kandy, is a place built on religion, money, politics, faith, power, morality - and some of the most striking temples anywhere in the world. But which ones should you visit?


Secret Kandy Part 1 | Down City Streets
Kandy’s deeper history is a byzantine tale of kings, caste, money, and religion. Here, history is not dead; not even sleeping or dazed. It is instead ever on the lookout. So what should you look out for?


Shop | Retail Therapy in a Tuk-Tuk
Despite its understated fame, Galagedera’s high street, like those of most Sri Lankan towns and villages, is booming. As high streets die all around the world, how is it that this one is so alive and well, and bursting with shops, shoppers, services, and action?


Homes From Home | Sri Lanka's 50 Best Hotels
Sri Lanka’s auberge actuaries estimate that the island has well over 2,500 hotels. But if you had to stay in just fifty, which ones would you be most blessed to choose from – and why? What modest moral argument there ever is to pick out the best in anything is fatally undermined in this guide, for it presents merely my point of view. No judge, still less a democratically elected jury, is on hand to mediate and amend. The choices are, at worst, biased; at best, whimsical.


River Tales | Journeys Down Sri Lanka’s Great Rivers
Sri Lanka’s fourteen great rivers describe, along their winding courses, the whole history of the island, throughfares crammed with remembered journeys, feasts, technology, alliances, nature, gems, spices and religion. What are the stories they might tell us today?


Trincomalee | Finding Secret Gods And Ghosts
Who are the gods and ghosts that can still be heard whispering in this little-visited town on Sri Lanka’s eastern seaboard?
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